Florida gets a hard time for being Florida. As someone who used to catch flack for loving Los Angeles, I always try to give new places the benefit of the doubt. Though I had visited Orlando as a child, and brought our son when he turned eight, it doesn’t count. Orlando is not a taste of Florida but a Baptism by Disney.
Miami always seemed cool from a distance. The art deco hotels on the beach, Cuban culture, and Art Basel. I finally got down there to check it out.
Much like beach towns during spring break, there’s a heightened sense of recklessness in Miami. No matter the neighborhood or the time, there were loud mufflers and a thumping bass that rattled the dwellings. The party was all around you. Drag brunches at al fresco restaurants on the the boardwalk, drawing crowds. Rollerbladers in nothing but Speedos. It was a young energy all around.
What do we recommend? So much! Little Havana is a must-see, and go hungry. Esquina De La Fama has knockout food and cafe con leche. Their chorizo and chickpeas dish will make you curl your toes – it’s just that zesty. It must be said that the ceilings have video screens fastened to them in every direction, blasting music videos created by the restaurant’s owner. It plays on a loop and makes you wonder how the employees are faring.
The restaurant owner was an older gentleman, often posturing by a tricked-up car and surrounded by women in their early 20s at the most. They were slicked up and wearing neon bikinis, pawing at him as if chunks would fall off. My son had many questions.
Wynwood is an arts haven – giant murals adorn the walls and people are welcome to buy a bottle of spray paint and tag the sidewalks, which are covered. Visiting suburbanites on paid tours gasped in excitement, taking endless photos. But when you live in Richmond, Virginia like I do, street art and murals are everyday joys. Thankfully, there are museums and galleries aplenty. I even picked myself up a little painting of Christopher Walken, who looks like my late grandmother.
Wynwood also has the coolest ice cream shop: Morelia Gourmet Paletas. Think of paletas like popsicles, but with real food. Unlike the frozen sugar water of American popsicles, paletas are dense with real fruit, coconut milk, or heavy cream. There are endless flavors to choose from, including dips and toppings. Coconut paletas dipped in chocolate and dusted with Fruity Pebbles? Phenomenal!
And how can you do Miami without hitting up South Beach? That famous Art Deco architecture, mixed with a touch of Miami Tropicana was distinctly beautiful. No matter the colors; seafoam green, coral, sunshine yellow – it was all tasteful.
Thanks to a viral video from TikTok, we hunted down a shop called Wet Dreams, where you can score erotic waffles . Of course I went – I have to support local!
Secret Gardens in Miami is a gorgeous place to get away from the constant throb of music and mufflers in the city. Near the Everglades, it’s a winding maze of waterfalls, koi ponds, sculptures, and outdoor beds. Though I will admit it’s hard to relax when there are so many selfie opportunities. It’s as if they designed the place with Instagram in mind.
While you’re there, get your toes in the sand and feel the warm gulf stream. Drink straight from a coconut. Smoke a Cubano. Load up on plantains and vaca frita. Then stop by a bakery to stock up on chicken croquettes, pan Cubano and papas rellenas. Rent a convertible. Watch the sunset.
Be grateful for these pockets of culture in the U.S. that haven’t been overrun by the Targets and Walmarts of the world. Miami is rich with independent businesses. Some are speaking a language you’ve never heard before, making things you’ve never seen before, and some are frying up something you’ve never tasted before. Take it all in. Miami definitely dances to its own beat. And chances are, that beat is louder than yours.
Fayeruz Regan 